As you may or may not know, I recently bought some new wheels and tires to use for autocrossing. I like how my Big TSW’s look better than the Flik’s that I bought, but the Fliks are smaller and lighter. Here’s a pic of the new wheels on my car:

I did some PMD’s (Poor Mans Dyno) with the new wheels/tires vs the old wheels/tires. Before I list those results, here are some stats on the wheel and tire combos.

Weight (using bathroom scale):
RF – TSW Revo 17×8 with Nitto NT555 205/40/17 = 42.2lbs
RR – TSW Revo 17×8 with Nitto NT555 225/40/17 = 43.6lbs

RF – Flik Blast-C 15×6.5 with Hankook Ventus Rs2 Z212 205/50/15 = 34.2
RR – Flik Blast-C 15×6.5 with Hankook Ventus Rs2 Z212 205/50/15 = 34.0
So the weight difference is nearly 10lbs (9.4) for the rear wheel!

PMD Results:
Common:
1/2 tank of gas
d...

OK. I put the car up on ramps and then on jack stands. Which was a PITA because my cheap ass floor jack doesn’t lift that high. That’s always bothered me and I may get a new jack .. but anyway….

getting the bolts out and back in on the passenger side was pretty easy. The driver’s side was a little tougher, but not too bad. I torqued the front bolds while the car was up on stands, and lowered teh car down onto the ramps to torque the rears which was not easy since I had hardly any clearance to move the torque wrench.

I didn’t weigh down the car when torquing the rear bolts. Is that step absolutely necessary? If so, I can loosten them and re-torque with some assistance.  However, after a long time of use, there have been no ill effects.

I used some left over scraps from drawer liners for ...